When it comes to the success of your home repair and improvement project there is nothing more important than to complete the project with no injuries! I remind my self of the safety rules each time I use a tool, especially a power tool. That is why after 25 +/- years I have yet to sustain a major injury, knock on wood. (I cut my thumb pretty bad with a utility knife one time in my youth not having employed proper knife safety). However my appendages are all in place, I have no broken bones, no back problems or knee problems. I want the same for you.
Secondly, it is also important to use the saw properly so that you end up with a pro looking job!
6 1 2 Circular Saw
What is a circular saw (also known as a skill saw)? In our example it's the kind of saw that is hand held on top of the material that is to be cut and has a circular blade. Hence the name. The area of the saw that rests on the material is called the shoe plate. The blade comes in sizes most commonly from 4" to 8". For general cutting purposes on home projects a size 7 ¼" is most common. If someone asks you what size saw you have, the proper answer is to tell them the blade size. Blades also come with varying numbers of teeth. The number of teeth on the blade should be right for the material and the direction of the cut. When cutting along the length of the wood (with the grain, called a rip cut) use fewer teeth. When cutting across the wood (across the grain, called a cross cut) use more teeth. If the wood is harder, use more teeth. Carbide tipped blades are better. When properly installed for wood cutting, the teeth on the front of the blade should be pointing up. For cutting other things, such as vinyl siding, the blade can be put on "backwards". Always disconnect the power cord when changing blades. Don't use an overly dull blade. Blades can be changed easily: First, it helps if you set the blade depth to shallow. Second, find the blade lock on the outside of the saw. It's kind of like a metal button that you push. Then find a wrench that fit's the retaining bolt in the center of the blade. When you buy circular saw blades make sure the arbor (the hole in the center of the blade) is the right fit. Next, push down on the blade lock and turn the blade until you feel it lock. Now you can unscrew the retaining bolt counter clockwise. Once the bolt is removed, lift the blade guard to remove the old blade. Install the new blade using reverse procedure.
Most circular saws will typically have 2 adjustments. One is the bevel adjustment. This is the one that tips the saw blade from side to side. This in turn causes the saw to cut at an angle. Use at 0 degrees for straight cuts. The other is the blade depth. This is the one that allows the blade and the motor to slide up and down in relation to the shoe plate. This causes the blade to cut deeper or shallower into the material. Usually these adjustments are held in place with nut and bolt type fasteners. The nuts will come in varying shapes and sizes. Be sure they are tight before using the saw. Also don't forget to unplug the saw before making adjustments.
The on-off switch is a trigger/toggle type which may or may not have a safety latch. Release the safety (if it has one) and "pull the trigger" to actuate the blade. Don't forget to release the trigger when you are finished making the cut!
As far as making a cut goes there are a few things I like to remember before I do: Cut outdoors if you can. If you cut with the wind at your back, it will blow the sawdust away from you. Have good lighting. Wear eye and ear protection. Wear shoes and socks. Avoid loose clothing and any other object that can come close to the blade. Avoid distractions that can suddenly cause you to loose focus. Adjust the saw for angle and depth. Make sure the material is stable and won't move around as this can result in injury and/or a poor cut. In the absence of a helper, I like to use clamps when working from a saw horse. If you are working from a pile you can sometimes put foot or knee pressure on the material to keep it steady. Use common sense though and don't try anything that doesn't seem right. Remember: sawdust on plywood can make it slippery when walked on. Pay attention to what is under the material you are cutting. Whatever comes in contact with the material along the line of your cut will be affected by the blade in the same way the material is. This includes fingers! Put something under the material to avoid unwanted contact with the blade. Shade your eyes from bright sunlight. Make sure the mark you are cutting along is clearly visible. Cut with the back of the material (the side that won't show when installed) on top. This will insure that the side that shows will have a nice clean cut with no "feathers". Make sure the power chord of the saw is trailing behind the saw and can't be cut accidentally. Adjusting the blade depth to approx. 1/8" below the material helps with avoiding unwanted outcomes.
(Warning! Kickback is when the back of the blade binds and causes the saw to suddenly jump violently away from the material, and possibly out of your hand, causing possible injury, damage to the material and damage to the saw. One way to avoid this is to go slow with your cut. If you feel resistance and notice the motor wind down, kickback could be imminent! Stop forward motion with your saw. Release the trigger and hold the saw steadily in place until the blade comes to a complete stop. This type of kickback usually occurs when making a rip cut and is caused by the wood having natural tension in it, pinching the back of the blade. To remedy this problem, place a wedge in the curf (the portion of the material that is taken out by the blade) in between the two sides of the cut. Other ways kickback can occur are if you or the material or the saw gets bumped or are otherwise disturbed. This can cause the back of the blade to be moved to the side causing it to bind. Another way is if you let go of the saw while it is still in the material and the blade is still moving. Still another way is if you try to cut a radius. Circular blades are intended for straight cuts, straight blades, like jigsaw blades, are intended for circular cuts. If you use it for anything else you are taking your chances. Don't try to cut the wood in between the sawhorses, always on the outside. More specifically, never have the material supported on both sides. Support the long side of the board and have the short side be free of contact. Kickback can also occur if the blade has contact when you "pull the trigger". But mostly, avoid kickback by paying attention to how much pressure is on the back of the blade.)
Now you are ready to make a cut. I like to start with just the front end of the shoe plate resting comfortably on the material. Make sure the blade is not touching the material when you "pull the trigger". Set the blade in line with the cut line so that it is on the side of the line that is the "waist" side. Make a few small "test" cuts moving the blade closer to the line each time. When you finish the cut, the mark should still be visible but get as close to it as you can. Remember: you can always take more off the board if it is too long but you can't put more on if it is too short! Make sure the power chord can move freely. Try to relax as you make the cut. Be gentile with your motions. If you fight the saw, the saw will probably win. Cutting slowly will make a better cut. Focus your vision on the blade, not on the wood, from the handle side of the saw. Make sure the shoe plate is resting completely and flatly on the material. Less side to side motion makes a straighter cut. The blade can be maneuvered to stay on the line but watch for kickback. I like to push the saw with my body rather that with my arm. Cut past the end of the cut. To avoid the "chink" that can occur when the waist side falls off, place an object that is about 1/4" to 1/2" below the waist piece so that it doesn't fall too far.
This is in no way intended to be an exhaustive essay. It is just a few notions I had on a Sunday afternoon while thinking about my circular saw. Use your own good judgment. Leave a comment and Happy Sawing!
Special Price!!! Hitachi C7SB2 15 Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw
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Hitachi C7SB2 15 Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw Feature
- 15 amp motor for powerful performance
- 55-degree bevel capability
- Soft rubber grip handle for comfort
- Package-includes 24-tooth carbide blade and carrying case
- Hitachi exclusive 5-year warranty
Hitachi C7SB2 15 Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw Overview
This new circular saw combines Hitachi's rock-solid construction with a lightweight and ergonomic design. The saw has a powerful and smooth-running 15 amp motor with a replaceable carbon brush for long life and easy maintenance. The saw's aluminum-alloy base bevels from 0 to 55 degrees, with positive stops at 0 and 45 degrees. Depth of cut and bevel adjustments are both tool-free operations. The handle has a comfortable nonslip grip, and at only 10.1 pounds, it's hard to find a lighter-weight saw with this much power. Professionals and serious woodworkers who prefer sidewinder-style saws will find this to be among the best of the bunch. For people who want a little more, check out Hitachi's C7BD2 model, which is this same saw with an electric brake. --Brian TrinenHitachi C7SB2 15 Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw Specifications
The award-winning Hitachi C7SB2 15-Amp 7-1/4-Inch Circular Saw has a powerful 15 Amp motor for ripping OSB, 2x4s, plywood, and other common framing materials. And with a wide bevel capacity, adjustable stops, cutting-depth lever, and more, the C7SB2 will tackle heavy-duty professional jobs with ease.
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 This 15 Amp circular saw powerfully rips common framing materials. View larger. |
 The 24-tooth, carbide-tipped blade slices with precision. View larger. |
Winner of the Taunton Press 2005 Best Value award, the C7SB2 features a single-phase 120-volt, 15 Amp motor that generates a no-load saw speed of 5,800 RPM and an output of up to 2,100 watts.
The 7-1/4-inch, 24-tooth, carbide-tipped blade with 5/8-inch arbor powers through tough cuts with ease. It has a 1-27/32" depth of cut at 45 degrees and a 2-3/8" depth of cut at 90 degrees. And with a cutting depth lever, the C7SB2 makes it easy to select the right depth for the job.
Perfect for a Wide Range of Beveling Applications
The C7SB2 Circular Saw is capable of not only making accurate 90-degree cuts, but it can also make clean bevels from 0-55 degrees in just about any common framing material.
An adjustable lever makes it easy to find the bevel stops at 0, 45, and 55 degrees. It helps keep your blade true and accurate by locking the blade in place at the desired angle. A blade guard protects your hands during angled cuts, and a spindle lock provides an extra level of safety.
Full of User-Friendly Features
The C7SB2 has a host of features that will make your next cutting job as easy as can be. To start, a one-piece die-cast aluminum alloy base features easy-to-read front and side scales for accurate measurements.
The non-slip Elastomer-grip handle keeps you in complete control of the tool and provides comfort for all-day jobs. What's more, this saw weighs only 10.1 pounds, so it is extremely easy to maneuver and transport.
To top it all off, an easily accessible carbon brush lets you replace the brush as needed to prolong the life of the tool.
The C7SB2 Circular Saw is backed by a five-year limited warranty.
About Hitachi: A Tradition of Innovation
Hitachi Power Tools (Hitachi Koki USA, Ltd.) provides professional-grade power tools for a variety of applications, including woodwork, metalwork, concrete, drilling, cutting, and fastening. Hitachi is a leader in power tool research and development and has achieved many firsts in the power tool industry. Today, Hitachi continues the tradition of innovation and engineering with new features in addition to classic quality.
What's in the Box
C7SB2 Circular Saw, 24-tooth carbide-tipped blade, 10mm wrench, and carrying case.
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